Long Journey North
Finally made it to Ethiopia. Hurrah!
after that last blog, I was called to the bus for another 3 hours of faffing before finally leaving. It was an hour to get out of the city during rush hour and all the police checkpoints.
I might just add that I was never robbed in Nairobi (although I did lose my wallet on the bus, I have a habit of losing my wallet on buses so I never keep much money or any important documents in it). A waiter informed me that robbery is not a problem anymore, It used to be about 5 years ago, but the latest government increased police wages to double. So since then police are more inclined to be honest and theft has gone down. Don't know what the deal with the road blocks is, We had over 10. I was asked for my passport several times, and many of those on the bus without papers had to pay 'fines'. They guy next to me travelling on a South African passport paid a 'fine' for not carrying his yellow fever vaccination certificate, they didn't need to see mine.
To the border in total it took 30 hours with a few stops for food and toilet breaks. the land went from Savannah to stones, to bleak barren desert again.
I had heard from other traveller that it was a difficult and harrowing border to cross so I linked up with 3 others and agreed to cross with them. When I met them the next morning one had been thrown into jail for not having 'correct' papers, one had his papers confiscated from him by the police and the other (the guy travelling on a South African passport) was sent back to Nairobi because he didn't have a visa to enter Ethiopia... possibly something to do with the fact that he was Somalian by birth, by looks and by accent.
So just me. I decided to hire a broker. I arranged the price in advance for him to assist me though immigration, change money, arrange a hotel on the Ethiopian side and sort me out with a bus to Addis.
He did all that, but I didn't need him at all, and he was more of a pain in the arse than anything. For example the crowded throngs of money changers were about 3 very pleasant and funny men. I thought back to those who warned me about the dangers of the border... yep, people who had never been there. When will I learn to stop listening to the paranoid fears of others who collect their information from the exact same sources as me, but just interpret it differently.
After finally getting rid of my broker who insisted that I really need a guide all the way to Addis Ababa (the capital in the middle of the country where the school is). I was sitting in my hotel enjoying a cup of tea and my book (Divine secrets of the Ya Ya sisterhood) when the money changer I had changed money with stopped by; "Oh hi, Look, I just want to let you know that I gave you a really shit rate. I was paying your broker a high commission, just so you know next time you shouldn't pay that high." An accountability and honesty I have never, never seen since I got to Africa... actually rare anywhere in the world.
I only changed a small amount of money anyway.
Impressed by his honesty we got chatting. He taught me the Ethiopian version of Gin Rummy and introduced me to Ethiopian food.
I followed a man from the Nairobi bus and his 9 year old adopted daughter all the way to Addis 12 hour bus ride, stay in a hotel, 5 hour bus ride) He is another kind Ethiopian, he wants to immigrate to Australia, he has all the qualifications and a sponsor, but he is still trying to collect the documents needed for his daughter who, as a baby, was left in a church where he worked. no easy task.
I'm in Addis, and the staff at the school continue to maintain my first impressions of Ethiopians as fun, kind, friendly and generous. My accommodation is not ready yet, but they have put me up in a hotel until it is. I hope to start teaching in a couple of days.
As I entered on a tourist visa there may still be immigration issues. I can not get anything from the Embassy in Melbourne as I am already in the country. We shall try here quoting the information I was given at the Embassy in Nairobi. there is even talk of me going back to UK for a month (August - Yay, Edinburgh festival) getting a business visa in London and returning. It's still up in the air. 
after that last blog, I was called to the bus for another 3 hours of faffing before finally leaving. It was an hour to get out of the city during rush hour and all the police checkpoints.
I might just add that I was never robbed in Nairobi (although I did lose my wallet on the bus, I have a habit of losing my wallet on buses so I never keep much money or any important documents in it). A waiter informed me that robbery is not a problem anymore, It used to be about 5 years ago, but the latest government increased police wages to double. So since then police are more inclined to be honest and theft has gone down. Don't know what the deal with the road blocks is, We had over 10. I was asked for my passport several times, and many of those on the bus without papers had to pay 'fines'. They guy next to me travelling on a South African passport paid a 'fine' for not carrying his yellow fever vaccination certificate, they didn't need to see mine.
To the border in total it took 30 hours with a few stops for food and toilet breaks. the land went from Savannah to stones, to bleak barren desert again.
I had heard from other traveller that it was a difficult and harrowing border to cross so I linked up with 3 others and agreed to cross with them. When I met them the next morning one had been thrown into jail for not having 'correct' papers, one had his papers confiscated from him by the police and the other (the guy travelling on a South African passport) was sent back to Nairobi because he didn't have a visa to enter Ethiopia... possibly something to do with the fact that he was Somalian by birth, by looks and by accent.
So just me. I decided to hire a broker. I arranged the price in advance for him to assist me though immigration, change money, arrange a hotel on the Ethiopian side and sort me out with a bus to Addis.
He did all that, but I didn't need him at all, and he was more of a pain in the arse than anything. For example the crowded throngs of money changers were about 3 very pleasant and funny men. I thought back to those who warned me about the dangers of the border... yep, people who had never been there. When will I learn to stop listening to the paranoid fears of others who collect their information from the exact same sources as me, but just interpret it differently.
After finally getting rid of my broker who insisted that I really need a guide all the way to Addis Ababa (the capital in the middle of the country where the school is). I was sitting in my hotel enjoying a cup of tea and my book (Divine secrets of the Ya Ya sisterhood) when the money changer I had changed money with stopped by; "Oh hi, Look, I just want to let you know that I gave you a really shit rate. I was paying your broker a high commission, just so you know next time you shouldn't pay that high." An accountability and honesty I have never, never seen since I got to Africa... actually rare anywhere in the world.
I only changed a small amount of money anyway.
Impressed by his honesty we got chatting. He taught me the Ethiopian version of Gin Rummy and introduced me to Ethiopian food.
I followed a man from the Nairobi bus and his 9 year old adopted daughter all the way to Addis 12 hour bus ride, stay in a hotel, 5 hour bus ride) He is another kind Ethiopian, he wants to immigrate to Australia, he has all the qualifications and a sponsor, but he is still trying to collect the documents needed for his daughter who, as a baby, was left in a church where he worked. no easy task.
I'm in Addis, and the staff at the school continue to maintain my first impressions of Ethiopians as fun, kind, friendly and generous. My accommodation is not ready yet, but they have put me up in a hotel until it is. I hope to start teaching in a couple of days.
As I entered on a tourist visa there may still be immigration issues. I can not get anything from the Embassy in Melbourne as I am already in the country. We shall try here quoting the information I was given at the Embassy in Nairobi. there is even talk of me going back to UK for a month (August - Yay, Edinburgh festival) getting a business visa in London and returning. It's still up in the air.
posted by Rachel | 4:45 pm
3 Comments:
Glad you arrived safely, good luck for your 1st day
xx
Thrilled that you have made it and what character building experiences! Of course your character does need building doesn't it!!! Let's hope that all the red tape goes thru and Eth continues to be full of delightful people. M
Your blog makes me smile really - you sound so much like Xena the Princess Warrier.........all the best with it! PS - where is your little Gabrielle??
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