Rachel Travels

Rachel thought a blog was the best way for other people to see what she was up to. It makes her feel special to write about herself in the third person.

Sunday, October 08, 2006

hagglers, hustlers liars and touts

Luxor sucks. It sucks because it doesn't represent the energy, vitality, honesty and genuineness abundant in other parts of Egypt. Everyone is a scam artist and everything an effort.

I have just spent an hour writing all this when my hard drive shut down... Another reason it sucks. I wrote of how many days it has taken to post a couple of parcels, of the valley of the kings and other overpriced tourist traps, of bad ethics and chats, of scams an harassments.



Sabrina and Za'imah have gone down to Aswan, Ryan has departed for London. Star and I head back up on the overnight train to Cairo tonight. I have been accepted to teach English in Sudan. So I need to get back up to the delta to pick up my stuff, sort out medical and get a Visa... Which an be anywhere between immediate to up to two months. I hope to be in Khartoum (Sudan's Capital) by the end of the week.

I am trying to minimise expectations for Sudan. If I try and imagine what life will be like there I know I will just be wrong. I am avoiding delusions that I will change anything. I know if there is any changing, it will be me. I realise that there will be times I'll have to pass bribes, or adjust my ethics for specific situations. I also realise that many people will not be grateful for my presence and see me as a representation of the rich and hypocritical West.

So I've been reading up a bit on Sudan. It is the largest country in Africa, almost landlocked. The major problems are in an area the size of France called Dafur over to the west side, and at the boarders of most of their neighbors who they have managed to piss off (not Egypt or Ethiopia at the moment). Dafur has been in the news a bit lately. The AU - African Union (kind of like the EU but poorer and more corrupt) have sent in troops to sort out the problems, but they are tiny (7000 soldiers) So there is a move by the UN to send in troops, but the government is having none of it. Anyway, better explanation on: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/Africa/default.stm

it is one of those countries with masses of displaces people, widespread starvation, corruption to the core and problems so immense it just feels hopeless. I honestly have no idea how I'm going to deal with being faced with this.

I'll be in Khartoum, the capital city that is well away from the Dafur and the boarders. Actually I'll post a map. I'll also post some photos, it is so dusty here that it is almost impossible to take photos without ghost orbs in them. It sounds like Sudan is going to require a lot of patience. The lonely planet guide warns of a lot of red tape... Like needing a photo permit to carry a camera, and even after obtaining the photo permit there are restrictions... I wonder if toilets are one of them. I got made to delete a photo of a sleeping police officer here, I don't think I will risk that kind of thing in Sudan, they would confiscate my camera.

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