Settling into Sudan

Khartoum is a city of about 3 million people... well so the lonely planet says, but written 2 years ago a lot has changed here. like, US sanctions which mean I can not change travelers cheques or access ATM machines (hence my povety) and also the waves of displaced people who have now joined the city. So it's pretty big. I can't take photos. Ok I can't take photos legally so I'll try and take a few shots from roofs and post them. The government is Arab Muslim so Women in the city must keep their heads covered. Some have told me this is law but there are a few that don't do it, and a lot of foreigners seem to let their hair out. I play it safe and keep my 1cm mop covered.

The UN has a massive presence here. each day I see 3 or 4 shiny white trucks with bold 'UN' on the side, all diplomats. haven't seen a blue hat yet. I have been here 4 days, when to a party on my second night hosted by another volunteer and a French teacher from the university where I will be teaching. The ex-pat community here seems to be, in order of wealth: Embassy staff, humanitarian workers, foreign language teachers, volunteer language teachers. So I'm amongst some people with some very impressive job titles, like 'humanitarian correspondent for the French embassy' he only looked about 26.

So, the deal for me: as expected the volunteer position was not as I thought, unlike I had expected it is far better. I work only 20 hours a week instead of 30, I get paid 150usd a month instead of 100 and I get paid in local currency. my flat is a huge one bedroom appartment on the 4th floor (most buildings here are only 2 storeys). There is a huge balcony that I'm going to set us as my bedroom. All I need out there is a mosquito net.

I am supposed to share with Anna, another volunteer teacher (the one who had the party) but she moved into a flat with Joanna, a French teacher. So I have the place to myself. the volunteer programme don't want me to live my myself so thought it a great idea for Mick to stay (he has to wait around Sudan for a couple of weeks for motorcycle parts to arrive). I was supprised at this as Mick is an unrelated male. So he gets the cool breezy balcony, and I get the room with air con. luxury.

I have not yet started teaching. But the position is also better than I expected, I was supposed to be placed that the Islamic University, but after a lot of messing the programme about they decided they don't want a female teacher. It would have been interesting, but would have involved a hell of a lot of tongue biting. So I have a placement at Khartoum University, Faculty of Arts, Department of English to teach (or lead)... Conversational discussion groups. Perfect.

My time table will be arranged when the department teaching assistant returns from his holiday. that just how things work here. until then I shall sit in on Anna's classes. she does actual teaching as she is an actual teacher (actually she's a bit like my mother, she's 60 years old and had decided to help disadvantage students have access to experienced English teaching before she heads into retirement). I will also try and sit in on some of the other volunteers' classes. there are three ridiculously good looking 20-something guys who all live in a flat in a different part of the city, and two more who look like they are in their 30s who live above the volunteer programme office which is right in the middle of the city. We are all dotted about at different Univerities and schools.

What I would really like is a phone. The volunteer programme are insisting on it for my safety (they are obsessed with safety) and I think it might me useful in aquiring a social life. I could just change some currency and buy one for usual western prices and get a sim card. but I am really reluctant to eat into my limited supply of hard cash. So if you have an old mobile phone laying about you house doing nothing please sent it to me. Only if you don't use it and don't want it. Also send the charger, I have an adaptor. If more than one of you sends a phone I will give them to the volunteer programme so in years to come all volunteers will be given a phone upon arrival, that would be nice. Here is were to send it to:

Rachel Walton
C/O Momen Osman Salih
Sudan Volunteer Programme
P O Box 1387
Khartoum
Sudan

Don't need anything else, Seem to be able to get all I need here. Even snickers bars. Also, if you didn't already think of it, on the outside of the package say something like 'child's toy' and if asked a value make it very low. things dissappear in the post. I have noticed that the best way to get around corruption is to lie.

I have a cold, had if for a few days now. Also sorry about the lack of email contact. I am delaying writing real emails in the hope the university might have internet facilties... or even more exciting, free internet for staff.