day-to-day life

There is quite a discussion going on in the comments from the 'Winter' post below about FGM. Just thought I'd mention it if you are interested.

So my life seems to have already slipped into a comfortable routine. I work 6 days, in Sudan the weekend is only Friday. I only work 2-4 hours a day and almost all my classes start at 2pm. I have one on Thursdays that starts at 8am just to keep me on my toes. On Monday and Wednesday nights from 5pm-10pm I proof read for the newspaper. I'm slowly starting to get to know the people at the newspaper. they call me "Russia" which I rather like, or "Rayshell" which is easier to pronounce, and those who speak french call me "Rachelle".

I have a lot of students, about 100, they seem to come and go to and from random classes. The largest class I have taught was only about 30 students. sometimes I have only 3. I still struggle with the names the typical Mathew, Mark and John (English, in Scots that would be: Andrew, Robert and David) is Mustafa, Alshareef and Mohammad. I Like the students and really learn a lot from them. That is a really great thing about leading discussion classes.

Anna (another volunteer) is moving into my house. I was just beginning to really enjoy living alone. it is a one bedroom apartment, but I have already claimed a corner of the lounge. I prefer the lounge as I get a good breeze from the balcony. The bedroom has no windows. I now have Television, satellite, Several English channels like BBC world and NBC 2 that screens back-to-back movies. Luxury. I think it will be fun to live with Anna, good to have the company.

My front door has a large metal grill across it which I lock with a padlock when I go out.

On Fridays I try to do something touristy. last week I went to see a Sufi ritual. There are German, French and Greek cultural centres here and the British council that has a library. It is a city that had been effected by all the humanitian and aid workers here. this is why there are so many things catering for westerners. There is even a German Club where (for a price) you can swim in their pool... in actual skin-showing swim suits, it would feel like not being in Sudan for an afternoon if it wasn't for all the NGO workers discussing the humanitarian situations beyond the walls. I met a cartographer who drew a line wrong on a map and caused hundreds of refugees to end up in the wrong place.

There are power cuts each now and again. last night the power went out when I was right at the end of a long email (sorry Aldo, I'll write it again soon) . It's a good way to regularly defrost the fridge.

I have bought my very first pumice stone to file all the dead skin off my feet, feels better now.

Winter

The two things that bothered me most upon arriving in Sudan have strangely seemed to slide away into the dust. First the oppressive heat; in the past 3 weeks it has cooled down a hell of a lot. In fact it got down to 23 degrees the other night so I had to put another top on. I remember a summer in Edinburgh when it got up to 23 degrees I felt it was hot enough to risk cooking dinner in my bra. How times have changed. So cool as it is, I think the locals take it a step far when they wear balaclavas and wrap their toddlers up in fleecy coats.

The other concern was the expence of the place. I have learnt where the cheap food places are, I'm very comfortable with the bus systems and as my local market owners see me walking and busing around the place they have learnt that I'm not a UN worker and have dropped the price of their goods to suit. Also, working two nights at the newspaper over doubles my income. I really like it. I learn a bit about English, and a lot about what is going on.

I have met some of the old volunteers from SVP (the Sudan volunteer programme) that have moved onto NGOs (non government organisations) like UNICEF (United Nations children's emergency fund) and got interested in the possibility of working with the prevention of FGM (female genital mutilation).

From what I understand, Girls are circumcised when they are babies or when they reach puberty. This is practiced in 28 African countries and in the Middle East. It is not a in the Qur'an but (like the head scarf) has become part of some Muslim practices. It can be anywhere from the removal of the labia, to removal of everything and sewing up hole that remains with only enough of a gap to pee through. So there are many groups that through education programmes are saying this is barbaric, stop it.

I come to this issue from a different perspective. A pagan perspective. I understand the importance of initiation rituals. the marking of a time when a girl becomes a woman. not just for an individual, but for the family and community. this is a time to trade, celebrate, arrange marriages and present their daughter. It is the debutant ball of the African world. this can not be simply taken away.

In initiation practices there must be a form of ordeal. the initiate must prove their worth. That they have a right to belong to the tribe/group/family. In the Jewish bar mitzvah the initiate must recite from the Torah when they are 12 or 13. It sounds like a horribly daunting experience but once done they have proved themselves and adult... and better that having your bits whipped off, well for the lads they don't have any left.

So I think every tribe that practices female circumcision needs to be looked at individually. Why do they do it? what are the benefits. So then it can be worked out what can be adjusted so the lass is not deprived of the possibility of experiencing pleasure, or have her health endangered. Look into options of other rituals (if blood has to be drawn or if pain is important, scarification, or if they must alter the genitalia I could recommend piercing; if they must cut reducing what they take and what they do) , and work with the commuities, negotiate so what the would do. I think if FGM is outlawed it will go underground, into the the back-sheds and out of the view of noisy interfering westerners who think their ways are always right.

So I would like to get involved with this. I don't quite know how, but I'll ask around. One tribe at a time I think things can be changed. And after we rid Africa of the brutal practice of stealing parts of girls genitals without their free choice, robbing them of nerve endings and telling them they are cleaner for it... I'll go to the USA and rid it of the brutal practice of stealing parts of boys genitals without their free choice, robbing them of nerve endings and telling them they are cleaner for it.

fuzzy llama, fluffy llama

Just wanted to share this with you... it is stupid, but seems to get funnier everytime I see it. it makes me laugh. I happen to have sound on the computer I got today so have been listening it for far too long.

http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/llama.php

It's dumb and I love it. Llama, llama duck.

Lost another piercing

This time, from the middle of my head. It got infected. Things are not supposed to get infected in the desert. what's the point in living in a big sandpit if bacteria is going to thrive like it is in the jungle? Anyway it was yucky. Really yucky. it was swollen and red, I started to resemble a unicorn, no not so pretty, more like a rhino. so it had to go. The shame. I loved that piercing, and i know it is really hard to re pierce through scar tissue, so i may not be able to get it back. but i shall always have at least two little scars where it once was. at the moment i have what looks like two zits one above the other between my eyebrows.

So I have started teaching properly now. it has taken a while to bully the teaching assistant into arranging timetables, then attempt to explain that the timetable can not work if students are supposed to be in two different places at the same time. Then just redo the timetables myself. So now i have mostly 3rd-5th year English students discussion class. Yay! and also an independent group of zoology and other science students who want to practice thier English in their spare time. So all really goo. and tomorrow I'm going to work out a full plan of different topics to cover. One of my classes is sort of a left-over class, so I'm just going to use it for games and drama. last time they created a television add from objects in a bag. Today they had to decide on objects to use in a survival scenario.

My flatmate has left. Mick, suppose he wasn't really my flatmate, but we had been hanging out together for a month. He got his motorbike parts, and headed off south-west to Ethiopia. So i now have a big empty house. Sudanese people don't live alone. I'm watching Mick's blog to see how he goes. He actually invited me along to Cape Town. I was tickled pink with the invitation. but I quite like it here. Don't think I'll be able to handle the summer though. The weather here is so much better in just the two weeks i have been here. It is really cool at night. I sleep out on the balcony but now i use my sleeping bag. I have not had any problems with mosquitos but, the ants here bite, and not just once, they continue to bite several times in the same area. at the moment i have bites on my butt from this morning and upper thigh from yesterday... how do they get there.

So I'm settling in. still no sign of my passport, no AIDS test yet, no evidence of a visa extension or residency... yet I am assured it is all in hand, it is just everything takes longer here. So two days over my visa expiry. can't leave Khartoum. I had no intention to anyway but I have always treasured my freedom. I have been also assured that i am not here illegally... but the date stamped in my passport tells me otherwise. so I shall sit it out nervously. I know I can not make things more faster than the volunteer programme.

I have a television in my house. So I'm going to ask my landlady again if she can get it tuned in. there is BBC, and CNN that I might be able to get, and a couple of other English-language channels. and yesterday the big Arab news station Al Jazeeria started to broadcast in English. It will be nice to hear the other side, and maybe even understand it better. http://english.aljazeera.net/News

This is the newspaper i shall proof read for in evenings twice a week: http://www.sudantribune.com/ and this is my university: http://www.uofk.edu/ It was incredible when it was build at the turn of the century, and up till the 1950s it was cutting edge... but nothing seems to have happened since Sudan's independence from British rule in 1954. everything is dilapidated... but it still holds it's reputation. it is a very green campus, and i have been told that there are even monkeys in some of the trees (escaped from a closing zoo a few years ago) .

So to make up for the lack of photos, I shall pop in a couple of the lovely Missy Malone who continues to be my muse and heroine. The first is the cover of The List by photographer Jannica Honey, one of Missy's first but definitely not last covers. And the Bride of Frankenstein photo is from Birmingham's Candybox by Darkstones... everything on www.myspace.com/missy_malone including a couple of videos and pictures with me before i shaved my head and grew a rhino horn.

Sense and Censorship

A couple of days ago one of the French teachers was grabbed and pulled off the bus at the busy main bus station. She screamed for the police and 2 police came. The man who grabbed her kept trying to take her mobile phone away. It turned out that the grabber was a plain clothes police officer. She showed the 3 of them her French passport but to no effect, the officers got her into a car and started driving. She phoned a Sudanese friend and explained what was happening, each time she described a landmark they turned the car.

She got away, uncharged, with the help of her friend. They said they had seen her going to the University and didn't know who she was. She is Black, her parents from Chad, so they may have thought she was an illegal immigrant. She is also French, so dresses western, perhaps a bit too much for a black woman here. I don't know, it seems to be just chance it you get pulled up for something and equally just chance if you get away.

There is a long process of paperwork and red tape here. It requires a lot of keeping on the ball as to knowing what you need or don't need. My visa runs out on the 15th. It can be extended, but because I am staying here for 7 months they are applying for residency. This means a long progress: AIDS tests, paperwork and more waiting, also more pushing people to do stuff. I don't want to be here illegally (obiviously). This is not a country to be illegitimate in, and it is easy to be in the wrong: you must have a permit to take photos, all travel South, East, and West requites permits, permits are also required to visit historic sites... Americans are not allowed more than 25 miles outside Khartoum... unless of course they have a special permit.

So my job this week is to make sure my residency is secured or my visa extended. The advantage is, these things are done through the volunteer programme. So there is the support of the Ministry of higher education, and the Ministry of foreign affairs. The disadvantage is that the one person whose job it is to do this has not once, ever, done what he said he would do. I have given up trying to bully him into action and am now enlisting the help of his much more competent co-worker (who got my passport registered).

I have to edit the truth a bit, and often. If I am hanging out with Mick, he is my Husband or brother. Woman are 'valued' and of course if a woman is wandering off by herself, without any man to care for her, watch over her and protect her, then of course she must be not worthy: she is invaluable. It has also been recommended to me to say that I am Christian when asked my religion. This was suggested by some liberal Sudanese people I was already editing the truth. I certainly wouldn't say witch, the connotations are far too horrific, and pagan is also dodgy. So I was flippantly switching between Agnostic and atheist, the former not understood and the latter 'shameful'. I have managed to avoid saying I'm Christian... I just don't know if I can bring myself to do it.

No one knows of my burlesque past (not even fellow westerners, Mick suggests that it is too much information, so I shall take his advice until I don't). Most definitely, no one knows of the wee spot of stripping in did. I hate the censorship. I'm proud of my previous occupations. I know I have to bend and adapt to this culture, I have to realise that my morals are viewed here as absolutely shocking and disgusting (in a country where there is no age limit to marry and a man can take 4 wives). But how far do I bend? Do I attempt to intergrate until I'm in a burka myself? Till I believe what the government says? Till I stop questioning? The difference with me (as compared to the people who sit beside me tapping away on their computers) is that I know differently, I have experienced other ways, and I'm only here temporally, I will leave, I have no reason to create change. I just need to watch, listen, learn... and attempt to understand.

I heard word that one of the former volunteers was deported for insighting revolutionist tendencies in her class. I'm supposed to avoid the topics of religion, sex and politics in my University discussion groups... not easy as I need to get the students talking, and these are the 3 topics that will guarantee a conversation. It has been suggested that there may be at least one student in each class that is being paid by the police to be an informant. So it is in my best interests to steer conversations way from the present government, or Daufur, or UN, or well just about anything in the newspapers.

Sudan: the first week

Right, so Sudan. I want to tell you about what strikes me, before it fades away into being normal. It's a large, sprawling flat city, not many buildings are over 4 stories (mine is actually 3 stories not 4) the main roads are sealed, but the smaller roads in between are dirt. Only a few of the larger roads through and around the city have street lights. My street does. Sitting out on the balcony Mick heard a strange shuffling noise and the sound of flip-flops. Looking down onto the street we saw about 20 men in orange suits sweeping the road with stiff house brooms. They looked like prisoners but were not under armed supervision... so must just be the street sweeping team.

There are a lot of armed men in uniform here. Myriad different uniforms too. In Egypt it was easier: the young guys who are on National service are popped into white uniforms, those who can speak English (no matter how minimal) are tourist police, those that are left are traffic police. Here there seems to be a uniform for every possible different field of authority. But I don't know how much authority they have. The school uniform for many of the boys high school is cammo combats (one school looks a bit more like pajamas than fatigues) and I did see a couple of 'desert storm' uniforms (the one of the only two different types of cammo I reconise, the other is the funky pixalisation low-resolution cammo of the Canadians). So, camouflage is the Sudanese black.



I stick to the old black (which is not grey, it's black). This is a foolish colour to wearing in stinking, sweltering, dry, suppressive, draining, life-sucking heat. I'm told too that it is fortunate that I came in the winter, summer gets really hot. It is about 38 degrees in the shade. It hits over night lows in the 40s in summer. So slowly I'm going to have to change my waldrobe to lighter colours (and also my underwear to prevent show-though... I'm not allowed a body remember).

Food here is much like India, bowls of luke-warm and cold mush. Very tasty, eaten with bread. I cook at home, I have a fabulous kitchen. And while Mick is staying with me I get treated to meals out. Last night we had Nile perch... On the Nile.

Mick should be getting his bike parts at the end of the week InshAllah (God willing, or just the way you end sentences here). Then he'll need to get going fast to avoid the rains in Kenya. The two Nick's flew through Sudan, we a blinked and missed them. Last writing on their blog they had made it to Ethiopia and sealed roads and beer, so they are happy.

A couple of days ago there was a sheep in my backyard (the back yard is beside the house, it is dirt ground, a garage made from posts and a corrugated iron roof, a few piles of ceramic basins and the neibours cars all behind a metal gate). It was tied to one of the posts of the garage, an hour later it had been decapitated and was slowly being cut up for dinner. It's just these little things that are not good or bad, they are just different. You simply don't see people kill their own mutton for dinner where I'm from.

The busses are mini vans where 20 people huddle in, as each person gets off at their stop everyone shuffles back so only the seats near the door a vacant (very intelligent) . To stop the bus you click your fingers, the young bus conductor makes a hissing sound and the driver stops. It is a quiet, tranquil experience.

I have regular teaching hours. I still don't enjoy teaching. Just not my cup of tea. It may be better when I get to know the classes more. Also when I have a better idea of what topics to cover. I may have a job at a local English newspaper, starting the week after this. One night a week proof reading. Yeah I know, I suck at that. But, they don't know that yet and I might get better. I have read the Sudan Tribune a couple of times and spotted mistake, so might be able to do a better job than the person they have already. It's extra money, It's not private teaching, and it is in a field I am interested in.

I don't have much internet access, but I have found a cheaper place. This year two people have most annoyingly put my email address into the web without asking first. As a result I am back to getting 15 spam emails a day. This annoys me so much. People should know better... Would you give away your friends snail mail address to 'readers digest' without asking first? No. Why would you sign them up for a message service, friends reunited or WAYN without asking? Anyway this annoying and I may have to give jup the single email account I have kept for over 10 years. If I do get around to it I'll let you know. I vainly don't want to be y0ung -cr0ne_234 @wherever .com .

I like Sudan. It is a challenge.

Settling into Sudan

Khartoum is a city of about 3 million people... well so the lonely planet says, but written 2 years ago a lot has changed here. like, US sanctions which mean I can not change travelers cheques or access ATM machines (hence my povety) and also the waves of displaced people who have now joined the city. So it's pretty big. I can't take photos. Ok I can't take photos legally so I'll try and take a few shots from roofs and post them. The government is Arab Muslim so Women in the city must keep their heads covered. Some have told me this is law but there are a few that don't do it, and a lot of foreigners seem to let their hair out. I play it safe and keep my 1cm mop covered.

The UN has a massive presence here. each day I see 3 or 4 shiny white trucks with bold 'UN' on the side, all diplomats. haven't seen a blue hat yet. I have been here 4 days, when to a party on my second night hosted by another volunteer and a French teacher from the university where I will be teaching. The ex-pat community here seems to be, in order of wealth: Embassy staff, humanitarian workers, foreign language teachers, volunteer language teachers. So I'm amongst some people with some very impressive job titles, like 'humanitarian correspondent for the French embassy' he only looked about 26.

So, the deal for me: as expected the volunteer position was not as I thought, unlike I had expected it is far better. I work only 20 hours a week instead of 30, I get paid 150usd a month instead of 100 and I get paid in local currency. my flat is a huge one bedroom appartment on the 4th floor (most buildings here are only 2 storeys). There is a huge balcony that I'm going to set us as my bedroom. All I need out there is a mosquito net.

I am supposed to share with Anna, another volunteer teacher (the one who had the party) but she moved into a flat with Joanna, a French teacher. So I have the place to myself. the volunteer programme don't want me to live my myself so thought it a great idea for Mick to stay (he has to wait around Sudan for a couple of weeks for motorcycle parts to arrive). I was supprised at this as Mick is an unrelated male. So he gets the cool breezy balcony, and I get the room with air con. luxury.

I have not yet started teaching. But the position is also better than I expected, I was supposed to be placed that the Islamic University, but after a lot of messing the programme about they decided they don't want a female teacher. It would have been interesting, but would have involved a hell of a lot of tongue biting. So I have a placement at Khartoum University, Faculty of Arts, Department of English to teach (or lead)... Conversational discussion groups. Perfect.

My time table will be arranged when the department teaching assistant returns from his holiday. that just how things work here. until then I shall sit in on Anna's classes. she does actual teaching as she is an actual teacher (actually she's a bit like my mother, she's 60 years old and had decided to help disadvantage students have access to experienced English teaching before she heads into retirement). I will also try and sit in on some of the other volunteers' classes. there are three ridiculously good looking 20-something guys who all live in a flat in a different part of the city, and two more who look like they are in their 30s who live above the volunteer programme office which is right in the middle of the city. We are all dotted about at different Univerities and schools.

What I would really like is a phone. The volunteer programme are insisting on it for my safety (they are obsessed with safety) and I think it might me useful in aquiring a social life. I could just change some currency and buy one for usual western prices and get a sim card. but I am really reluctant to eat into my limited supply of hard cash. So if you have an old mobile phone laying about you house doing nothing please sent it to me. Only if you don't use it and don't want it. Also send the charger, I have an adaptor. If more than one of you sends a phone I will give them to the volunteer programme so in years to come all volunteers will be given a phone upon arrival, that would be nice. Here is were to send it to:

Rachel Walton
C/O Momen Osman Salih
Sudan Volunteer Programme
P O Box 1387
Khartoum
Sudan

Don't need anything else, Seem to be able to get all I need here. Even snickers bars. Also, if you didn't already think of it, on the outside of the package say something like 'child's toy' and if asked a value make it very low. things dissappear in the post. I have noticed that the best way to get around corruption is to lie.

I have a cold, had if for a few days now. Also sorry about the lack of email contact. I am delaying writing real emails in the hope the university might have internet facilties... or even more exciting, free internet for staff.